There’s something about leaving the city behind and watching the buildings fade into mountains that resets your mind.
The road twisted through the valleys of northern Hyogo, past forests, rivers, and tiny towns that felt untouched by time.
I wasn’t heading to a crowded touristy area or a neon-lit street; I was heading to Yumura Onsen, a small mountain town known for its natural hot springs and peaceful way of life.
How to get here: From Tokyo, you can take a short flight to Tottori Airport, then drive about 45 minutes through scenic mountain roads to reach Yumura Onsen town, a cozy spot that perfectly captures the warmth and charm of rural Japan.

By the time we pulled into the town, the first thing I noticed was the steam.
It slowly rose from the river, wrapping the town in a soft haze that looked like something straight out of a Studio Ghibli movie.
No flashing signs. No rush. No noise. Just calm. After a week of travel and filming, that kind of peace hit differently.

The Heart Hunt in Yumura Onsen
Before anything else, I started walking through the streets of Yumura.
The town has this unique local event called the “heart hunt.”
Small heart-shaped stones and carvings are hidden throughout the town, some carved into buildings, others hidden within statues, and even shaped in the rocks.
Finding them isn’t just a game, it's a quiet way of noticing the little details that make this place special.
Visitors who show photos of the hearts they’ve found at the local tourism association can receive a small souvenir.
I got a towel with hearts to remember the town. (I included a few of mine below: one in stone, one in wood, and one in a statue.)

Cooking with the Locals
　Then came one of my favorite moments from the entire trip. A few locals invited us to try cooking using the onsen water itself.
The water in Yumura Onsen reaches nearly 98°C, and locals have been using it for generations, not just for bathing but also for cooking.

We made egg sandwiches by boiling eggs directly in the onsen a local tradition called “Yugaki” (ゆがき).
The hot spring source, known as Arayu, reaches nearly 98°C, and locals have been using it for generations not just for washing but also for cooking.
I bought a small bag of eggs from a nearby shop and lowered them into the steaming water beside the river. After about 10 minutes, they were perfectly boiled. the kind of soft, rich texture that only natural spring water seems to create. We cooled them down and turned them into the fluffiest sandwiches I’ve ever eaten.

It sounds simple, but when you’re standing by a natural hot spring surrounded by steam, laughter, and mountain air,
even something so ordinary feels heartwarming. The experience costs around ¥600 and can be enjoyed right in the center of Yumura Onsen.
We also brewed coffee using the same onsen water.
The flavor had this mineral warmth to it, maybe psychological, maybe real, but it felt like a piece of the mountain itself was in every sip.
It wasn’t a tourist show. It felt personal.
Just people enjoying the moment, talking about daily life, laughing about nothing serious.
That kind of memory stays with you longer than any sightseeing spot.

Checking In: Oyado Kotobuki Ryokan
　By mid afternoon, we checked into Oyado Kotobuki.
It is one of 13 lodging facilities here, a beautifully appointed ryokan tucked between the hills of the onsen town- one of eighteen lodging facilities spread across the Yumura area.
The concept of Oyado Kotobuki centers on good sleep therapy, blending cuisine, rest, and atmosphere into every detail. From the tatami mats and soft lighting of our room to the mountain view outside the window, the setting felt both warm and modern while staying true to Japanese simplicity.
Each room came with a private hot spring bath.
This made it so convenient and accessible to relax in the local onsen water.
Dinner that evening was on another level, a full hearth style kaiseki course that showcased the best of Hyogo’s local flavors.
Fresh seafood, mountain vegetables, and miso soup with deep umami flavor were arranged with care, each dish perfectly balanced.
By the time the final plate arrived, I was completely done for it was pure perfection.

After dinner, I experienced the inn’s signature Sleep Therapy service.
The treatment began with a relaxing in room head and neck massage, followed by dim lighting and total silence designed to guide the body into deep rest.
Lying there with the cool mountain air drifting through the window, I felt the stress of the day dissolve.
The combination of good food, stillness, and care made it feel like time slowed down completely that night.

Reflections from the Mountain
Yumura Onsen isn’t about checking boxes on a travel list.
It’s about slowing down enough to actually feel a place.
The murmur of the river, the gentle bubbling of the hot spring, the warmth of strangers including you in their community, the smell of fresh mountain air,
all of it reminds you that peace doesn’t have to come from doing more.
It can come from being somewhere that doesn’t need to prove anything.
That day I also stopped by an Obaa Café (grandma cafe). For a fun local experience, the place had an old quiet charm run by locals.
I found it fun to talk with the locals and try their food - I also made a video about this experience on my socials (Insta: Im_kyle_Metcalf).
Afterwards, I also tried the onsen shampoo experience, where you wash your hair with the same mineral-rich water from the hot spring.
It left my hair soft and clean, and somehow made the experience feel complete and really gave me a feel for the community in Yumura.

That night, lying on the futon after the massage with the sound of the river outside, I thought, this is Japan’s real luxury. Time, silence, and people who care.

That’s what makes Hyogo’s mountain towns unforgettable. Healing waters and warm hearts.